Garment



Nov. 14, 1939. c, TRAGESER 2,179,675

GARMENT Filed March 17, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 351 2- E 4 Ins-.5 Iii-L INVENTOR.

I Nov. 14, 1939;. C, F, TRAGESER 2.179.675

GARMENT F 'iled March 17,1958 f 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Far. 2- a INVENTOR.

A ORNEYS.

Patented Nov. 14, 1939 UNITED STATE I GARMENT Charles F. Trageser, Baltimore, Md'., assignor to Stadium Manufacturing Co. Inc.', Baltimore, Md., a corporation of Maryland Application March 17, 1938, Serial No. 196,477

19 Claims.

more particularly set forth, may be equally well applied to use at the crotch or seat portion of a bifurcated garment, such as trousers, pajama l pants, underdrawers, either short or long, and

shorts.

'My invention is particularly an improvement upon the invention covered in patent applied for by me and issued to'my assignee, September 11,

15 1934, hearing No. 1,973,419. Whereas in my patent aforesaid, it was contemplated that the insert providing the excess fullness at the side and under the arms would be automatically collapsed V and concealed from view, I have discovered that 20 after some use and particularly after improper folding and creasing following laundering, the

, insert, with its excess fullness, has not remained concealed, and in fact, has created a "bubble" or bulge which appearsunsightly.

The principal object of my present invention is to overcome the dificulties encountered with my previous patented invention through the construction and application to use of a gusset or insert which will remain concealed at all times 3 during the use of the garment wherein such structure is embodied and even after repeated laundering thereof.

A further object of the invention, of course, is the provision of an insert or gusset, particu- 35 larly at the arm pit of a garment which will permit free and easy' movement of the arms forwardly and rearwardly, upwardly and downwardly, without stress on other portions of the garment, but which will at the same time not pro- 4 duce an unsightly appearance to that portion of the garment where the gusset or insert is provided.

- Still another object of the invention is to provide means at the juncture of the arm and body 45 portions of a garment for the production of such a gusset or insert for free and easy movement of the arm without strain on the body portion and retention of the insert or gusset in a more or less v concealed position at all times, regardless oi 50 whether the garment is tubular or made of various pieces stitched together, and further regardless or whether the insert or gusset is a separate piece or formed integral with the body portion or body portionsof'the garment.

' 55 Still another object of the invention resides in the provision of a gusset or insert of the character mentioned, the greatest length of which may extend vertically, or horizontally, as may be desired, according to the garment to which his applicable or according to the preference of the manufacturer.

A still further object of the invention resides in the'provision of a gusset or insert, separable or integral with-the blank forming the body portion of the material, which is adapted to be stitched along certain lines, so that-when completed, the marginal edge thereof is angularly disposed.

Still another object of the invention resides in the construction, combination and arrangement of parts that will be hereinafter referred to and more particularly pointed out in the specification and claims. 1

In the accompanying drawings forming a part of this application, Figure 1 is a fragmentary porftion of a garment, partly in section, with the arm portion extended outwardly from the body portionthereof, illustrating in dotted lines the gusset or insert positioned therein.

Figure 2 is a central longitudinal section therethrough in the plane of the paper, illustrating in detail the insert or gusset therein.

Figure 3 is a front elevation of a fragment of a garment having my invention embodied therein,

with the arm portion in extended vertical p081 tion, showing theinsert or'gusset normally concealed.

Figure 4 is a similar view with the garment spread so as to reveal the gusset or insert therein.

Figure 5 is a perspective view of the gusset or insert removed from the garment, or prior to its application in place in the garment.

Figure 6 is a horizontal section as seen onthe line 6-5 of F118. 1.

Figure 7 is a diagrammatic view illustrating the application of the gusset or insert to the body portions of a garment with the insert partially spread.

Figure 8 is a similar view with the gusset or insert entirely spread, in somewhat exaggerated 5 form.

Figure 9 is a vertical section as seen on the line 8-9 of Fig. 1.

. Figure 10 is a diagrammatic view. similar to Figs. I and 8 but illustrating the relationship of the parts as shown by Fig. 0. I Figure 11 is a view similar to Fig. 10 with the insert or gusset in' out spread position, slightly exaggerated for purposes of illustration. Figure 12 is an elevation of the blank from which the gusset or insert, as shown in Fig. 5,

is formed, and prior to the stitching of certain parts thereof.

Figure 13 is a side elevation of the blank when folded along the dot-and-dash line shown in Fig. 12, also showing in dotted lines therein the position where the same is stitched to produce the insert as shown in Fig. 5.

Figure 14 is slightly modified form of the invention such as shown in Fig. 12. I

Figure 15 is a view similar to'Fig. 13 of the modified form shown in Fig. 14.

Figure 16 is an elevation of a further modification of the blank used for insert or gusset.

Figure 20 is an elevation of still another modification of insert elongated to extend the full length of the garment to which it is applicable. Figure 21 is a perspective view thereof when folded and stitched together prior to application to the garment.

Figure 22 is an elevation of a blank constituting a still further modification of the invention.

Figure 23 is a perspective view of the modiflca tion shown in Fig. 22 with a portion thereof stitched together prior to application to the garment.

Figure 24 is an elevation of still another modification of the blank used for the insert or gusset.

Figure 2.5 is a perspective view of the modification shown. in Fig. 24 with portions thereof stitched together preparatory to introduction to the garment.

Figures 26 and 2'7 are respectively elevations of back and front portions of a garment embodying therein a'further modification of insert formed integral with the portions of the garment.

Figures 28 and 29illustrate back and front portions of a garment with the insert or gusset integral therewith but slightly modified over that illustrated in Figs. 26 and 2'7.

Figure 30 is a side elevation of a blank showing a further modification wherein the insert or gusset is formed integral with a tubular body portion.

Figures 31 and 32 illustrate generally the patterns or blanks constituting the front and back portions of a garment preparatory to the stitching thereof together and prior to which my improved invention is applicable.

The improved gusset or insert constituting the subject matter of this invention is particularly adapted for use with a pajama coat, shirt or similar garment but it is to be understood that it is not restricted to this use and may be applied wherever found practical in the construction of a garment. In Figs. 1, 2, 3 and 4, there has been shown a fragment of a garment which maybe a pajama coat or shirt and includes in its make-up a body I having front and back sections 2 and 3; the usual sleeve 4 being provided and each sewed to the front and rear sections of the body by the usual arm hole seam 5. The front and rear sections of the body are sewed to each other by means of the usual side seam 6 and the sleeve 4 is also provided with the usual seam 1 which is alined with the side seam 6. The seams 6 and 1 terminate in spaced relation to the arm hole of the body as clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and in order to reinforce these seams at their ends and prevent ripping, there has been provided cross stitching 8 and 9.. This is clearly shown in Figs. 3 and 4 and referring to these figures, it will be seen that the space between ends of the seams 6 and 1 provides an opening l0 formed partially in the body I and partially in the under portion of the sleeve and expansion and contraction of these portions of the garment will be permitted to prevent binding when the garment is worn and also prevent tearing of the garment under the arms. When a garment so formed is worn, a person may move his arms forwardly and rearwardly or up and down very freely'as binding and likelihood of tearing the garment is eliminated.

The opening l0 should be filled in order to eliminate an open space in the garment under the arm and in order to do so, there has been provided an insert or gusset which is indicated in general by the numeral I and has upper and lower portions l2 and I3. Marginal edges of the insert or gusset are sewed to edge portions of the sleeve and front and back sections of the body I which constitute side edges of the opening III by lines of stitching Id. The gusset is formed of the same type of material from which the body and sleeve of the garment are formed and since the insert or gusset before being applied to the garment has its upper portion extending diagonally with respect to its lower portion, the insert may be applied as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, with its upper portion extending longitudinally of the sleeve and its lower portion extending longitudinally of the body of the garment.

When forming the insert or gusset, the material is cut to form a blank shown in Fig. 12 and indicated in general by the numeral Hi. This blank is substantially Y-shaped and has a shank l6 and arms 1 I extending from its upper end in diverging relation to each other. Notches l8 and I9 are formed in side edges of the blank adjacent upper and lower ends of the shank I6 so that when the blank is folded longitudinally along the dot and dash line 20 to provide the gusset with leaves 2| or diverging side section marginal portions of the leaves may be folded outwardly to provide wings or attaching strips 22 which are stitched to the inner surfaces of the sleeve and body long margins of theopening l0. Before the gusset is applied to the garment, the arms I! are brought toward each other and contacting inner side edges thereof sewed to each other by a line of stitching 23. This causes the blank to remain in the folded position in which it forms the gusset or insert II with the angularly disposed upper and lower portions l2 and I3 and provides the upper portion with a longitudinally extending reinforcement in its folded condition. It will thus be seen that the reinforcement will have a tendency to extend inwardly of the sleeve and body portion of the garmerit and assume a folded condition which will normally maintain the opening l0 closed. Instead of cutting the blank to provide the arm I! with longitudinally curved concaved inner side edges 24 as shown in Fig. 12, the side edges may be straight out as shown at 25 in Fig. 14 in which with this invention is worn, it is put on in the usual manner with a persons arms extending through the sleeves 4. The formation of the insert or gusset causes it to extend inwardly as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 and as it is reinforced by the longitudinally extending seam 23, it will be prevented from bulging outwardly through the opening it formed under the arm in adjoining portions of the sleeve and body of the garment.

Due to the provision of the opening Ill, the sleeve and the body portion of the garment may expand and contract when the person raises or lowers his arms or moves them forwardly or rearwardly with a straight swinging movement or a circular movement. The gusset or insert provides a very good flexible closure for the opening Ill and the fact that the insert or gusset cannot work out through the opening llicauses the shirt or pajama coat to be at all times comfortable to wear and in addition causes it to maintain its neat appearance which would be detracted from by a protruding portion of the gusset which would be seen under the arms of a pajama coat or shirt and would cause a bulge in a street coat worn over a shirt. 1

Instead of forming the insert or gusset from a blank such as shown in Fig; 12 or in Fig. 14, it may be formed from the blank shown in Fig. 16 or that shown in Fig. 18. In this embodiment of the invention, the blank which is indicated in general by the numeral 28 has a solid upper por-,

tion it which tapers toward its upper end and depending arms or legs 32 extending downwardly from the upper portion 29 in diverging relation to each other. These legs may have straight out inner side edges as shown at M in Fig. 16 or the side edges may be curved longitudinally as shown at it in Fig. 18. When the gusset is formed irom a blank such as shown in Fig. 16 or in Fig. 13, the blank is folded longitudinally midway the width of the upper portion 29 to dispose the inner side edges of the legs or arms it in engagement with each other and these contasting inner edges of the legs are then sewed to each other by a line of stitching 33 which maintains the blank in its folded condition to to w. the insert with the upper and lower portions it and i3. It will thus be seen that the usset formed from the blank it or the blank it and illustrated respectively in the Fig. 17 or 19 will correspond in appearance to the gusset illustrated in Fig. 5 except that in Fig. 5 the side portions or leaves of the upper section H are their inner side edges sewed to each other by a seam ill. It will also be noted by comparing Fig. 17 and Fig. 19 that the lower portion of the t may have its rear edge or medial edge extend straight throughout its length or this rear edge of the gusset may have a curved upper portion it as shown in Fig. 19. y

In Figs. 20 and 21, there has been shown a slightly modified form of gusset which is indicated in general by the numeral 35 and formed from the blank of Fig. 20 which is indicated by the numeral 36. The blank from which this gusset is formed is substantially a duplicate of that shown in Fig. 12 except that its body portion or shank 31 is of suflicient length to extend the full length of the shirt or pajama jacket from the arm hole to the lower end of the body of the arment. It will thus be seen that when the blank is folded longitudinally of its body or shank and the inner edges of its arms I! sewed to each other, a gusset will be formed having upper and lower sections 39 and 40 which are similar to the sections i2 and ll of the gusset previously dealong this dot and dash line 41, its upper porscribed except that the lower portion 40 is of sufficient length to extend from the arm hole of the garment to the lower edge of the garment body at the side thereof.

The gusset may be formed as shown in Figs. 22 and 23 or as shown in Figs. 24 and 25.. The blank illustrated in Fig. 22 and indicated in gen.- eral by the numeral 4| consists of a substantially oblong piece of fabric having its side edges notched as shown at 42 and 43 to provide notches corresponding to the notches l8 and I9. An opening 44 is formed at the transverse center of the blank midway between the notches 42 so that the completed gusset will be provided with a notch 35 at the upper end of the rear edge of its lower portion or section 46 formed when the blank is folded along the dot and dash line 41 extending from the opening 44 to the lower edge of the blank. After the blank has been folded 20 tion is sewed by a line of stitching 48 extending along the dot and dash line 49 and the portions of the blank above the notches 42 and between the line of stitching l8 and side edges of the blank will provide the gusset with an upper portion 59 corresponding to the upper portion ll of the gusset. A gusset formed from the blank shown in Fig. 22 will have the front edge of its upper portion extending in alinement with the front edge of its lower portion before it is applied to the garment but a gusset formed from the blank shown in Fig. 24 will have the forward edge of its upper portion extending diagonally in di verging relation to the forward edge of its lower portion as shown in Fig. 25, due to the factthat the upper portion of the blank shown in Fig. 24 is gradually widened toward its upper end above the side notches 42 and its side edges 5! extend diagonally in diverging relation to side edges of the lower portion of the blank. The surplus material 52 between the line of stitching 48 and the rear edge of the upper portion of the gusset may either extend rearwardly as shown in Figs.

23 and 25 or it may beflattened against one or both leaves of the uppersection of the gusset when the gusset is applied to a coat or shirt.

Instead of forming the gusset or insert separate from the other portions of the garment. it may be formed integral with a back section 3 as shown in Fig. 26 or a front section 2 as shown in 50 Fig. 27. It is to be understood that when the gusset is formed integral with the back section as shown in Fig. 26, a gusset formed integral with the back will be provided at each side of the garment and the front section 2 will be out in a conventional manner as shown in Fig. 31, whereas when the gusset is formed integral with the front sections as shown in Fig. 27, each front section will be provided with a gusset as shown in Fig. 27 and the back will be cut in a conventional manner as shown in Fig. 32. It is also to be understood that the back may be formed from a single pattern as shown in Fig. 32 or from a plurality 01' sections or patterns sewed together. Referrlng to Fig. 26, it will be seen that the gusset is formed from an extension or flap 53 which is integral with the back and projects from the upper portion of the side edge 5 below the arm hole 8. Arms I which form the upper portion of the gusset when their inner side edges are sewed to each other, extend upwardly from the upper end of the extension or flap 53 and upper and lower side notches 58 and' 51 are provided which correspond to the notches l8 and 18.

therefore, when the flap is folded along the line 75 58 and upper side edges of the arms 55 are sewed together, the extension or iiap may be folded between the notches 56 and the lower end of the extension to provide side strips or wings correspending to-the side wings 22 and the forward side wings sewed to the strips formed when the blanks from which the front sections of the coat or shirt are folded longitudinally between the notches 59 and the arm holes 5 of the front sections. The gusset when carried by the front section of the shirt or jacket is identical with the gusset just described except that the flap 60 will be formed integral with a front section instead of aback section of the shirt or jacket and the arms 6| which form the upper portion of the gusset project upwardly from the arm hole 5 of a front section 2 instead of the arm hole of a rear section. This flap-and its arms are folded and sewed as just set forth in connection with the gusset carried by a rear section of the garment and the strips or wings along outer side edges armhole and the lower edge of the shirt or jacket when formed integral with the front orback section of the garment, the pattern for the-back.

and front garment sections will be cut as shown in Fig. 28 and Fig. 29. In this embodiment of the invention, the pattern will be widened for its full length between the arm hole 5 and the lower edge of the garment-forming section instead of only fora short distance, this being readily appreciable by comparing Figs. 28 and 29 with Figs. 26 and 27 respectively. Notches 62 which correspond to the notches 56 are provided at the lower ends of arms 83 and 64 which correspond to the arms 55 and H and when the back pattern is folded along the dot and dash line 65 or the front pattern folded along the dot and dash-line 69 and inner side edges of the arms 63 or B5 are sewed to each other, g'ussets will be formed corresponding to those formed by the extensions shown in Figs.'26 and 27 but the lower sections of the gusset so formed will emend from the arm holes of a garment to the lower edge thereof instead of terminating a short distance below the arm holes. A garment so formed will be provided with gussets corresponding .to those shown in Figs. 20 and 21.

Referring to Fig. 30, it will be seen that a gusset of the improved construction may be incorporated in a garment whereinthe body is formed of a pair of sections or patterns each of which is of the formation shown in Fig. 30 and indicated by the numeral 61 and provides a front section andoneof the back of the shirt or jacket. This blank or pattern is cut to form an arm hole 68 corresponding to the arm hole 5 previously re- .ferred to and from the center of the lower portion of 'thetarm hole extend arms or strips 68 which diverge upwardly and when sewed together along their inner side edges form the upper portion ofia gusset taking the place of the upper portion I! of the gusset previously described. The lower portion of the gusset of this embodiment of the invention is formed by the portion of the blank or pattern under-the arm hole 88 and may-extend only a short distance or the full distance from the arm hole to the lower edge of the garment. 1 What is claimed a: l

1. The combination with a garment having a body and sleeve therefor, a strain-relieving opening being formed in operative relation to the junction of the sleeve with the body; of a gusset serving as an extensible closure for the opening comprising a fabric blank folded to form leaves movable towards and away from each other and constituting longitudinally extending portions, one of said'longitudinal portions being stitched longitudinally through the leaves to ,provide a reinforcement serving to cause the gusset to nor mally assume a folded condition and remain within the garment and the portions of the leaves forming the other longitudinally extending portion being integrally united to each other to permit free movement.

2. The combination with a garment having a body and a sleeve extending from an arm-hole of the body, a strain-relieving opening being provided in operative relation to the sleeve and the body, and a gusset serving as an extensible closure for the opening comprising a blank folded to form leaves movable from a contracted position when the opening is closed to an extended position when the opening is spread, said gusset constituting longitudinally extending portions extending in angular relation to each other and only one of which is stitched through its leaves to provide a reinforcement tending to cause the gusset to normally assume a contracted condition and remain within the body.

3. The combination with a garment having a body and a sleeve extending from an arm-hole of the body, a strain-relieving opening being provided in operative relation to the sleeve and the body, and a gusset serving as an extensible closure for the opening comprising a blank folded to form leaves movable from a contracted position when the opening is closed to an extended position when the opening is spread, said gusset constituting a plurality of portions one of which extends diagonally from the end of the adjacent other portion in diverging relation thereto, and a line of stitching passing through leaves longitudinally of the diagonally extending portion to provide a reinforcement tending to cause the gumet to normally assume a contracted condition and remain within the garment the said other portion of the gusset having its leaves integrally united to permit free movement.

4. The combination with a garment having a body, and a sleeve therefor, a strain-relieving opening being formed in operative relation to the iunction'of the sleeve with the body; of a gusset serving as an extensible closure for the opening comprising a blank folded to provide leaves movable from a folded position to an extended position and stitched for only a portion of its length from one end by a line of stitching extending at an angle to the line of fold and tending to cause the gusset to retain a folded position within the arment.

5. The combination with a garment having a body, and a sleeve therefor, a strain-relieving opening being formed in operative relation to the junction of the sleeve with the body; of a gusset servingas an extensible closure for the opening comprising a blank folded along a line coextensive with the opening and stitched for only a portion of its length'along a line diagonal to said line of folding to cause said gusset to normally retain a folded position withinthe garment.

6. A gusset comprising ablank folded to provide leaves movable from a contracted position to v anextendedpositiomandalineofstitchingextending through the leaves for only a portion of the length of the blank from one end thereof diagonally of the line of fold and constituting a reinforcement tending to normally maintain the leaves contracted.

7. A gusset comprising a blank folded alon a line midway its width to provide leaves movable from a folded position to an extended position and stitched together for only a portion of the length of the blank by a line of stitching exb. A gusset comprising'a blank having a body portion and diverging arms extending therefrom, said body being folded along a line extending longitudinally of the body between the arms to provide leaves and said arms having their inner opposed side edges secured together by stitching and extending'diagonally of the line of fold.

verging relation to each other, notches being formed at the junction of the arms with side edges of the body, said body being folded along a line extending longitudinally of the body between the arms to provide leaves having portions formed by the arms extending diagonally of portions formed by the body, and said arms having their inner opposed side edge portions secured together to provide uniting means for the arms and constitute a reinforcement therefor serving a) normally hold the gusset in a folded condiii. A gusset comprising a blank having a body and diverging arms extending from the upper end of the body, said body being folded along a line between the arms to dispose inner side edges in the arms in registry with each other and form a gusset having leaves. the upper portions of the leaves formed by said arms extending diagonally of lower portions formed by the folded body, and a line of stitching uniting the contacting inner edges of said arms and constituting a reinforcement.

12. A gusset comprising a blank having a body,

oliverging'arms depending from its lower end,

said blank being folded along a line between the arms to dispose inner side edges of .the arms in registry and form a gusset having folded leaves, the arm portion being disposed diagonally of the upper portions formed by the body, and stitching uniting the inner side edges of the arms and constituting a reinforcement for the gusset.

it. A gusset comprising a blank having its side edges formed with notches spaced from the upper end of the blank, an opening being formed in the blank midway the width thereof between the notches, said blank being folded along a line between the opening and the em to provide a gusset having leaves movable from a folded position to an extended position, and a line of stitching through the upper portions of the leaves extending diagonally from the opening tothe upper end of the gusset.

it. it. garment comprising a body and mid body consisting of front and back seehons wi l along sidm of the body and extension and united arms.

lower edge of the the arm hole with a lateral extension havingv diverging arms at its upper and extending from the lower edge of the arm hole, said extension being folded along a line between the arms and inner edges of the arms sewed together to' form a gusset having side leaves, the upper portions of which are formed by said arms, side edge portions of the leaves below the arm hole being united to the front and back sections and the upper portions of the leaves being secured along their side edges to margins of a slit formed in the sleeve.

15. In a garment having a body and sleeves extending from arm holes of the body, a body section having a portion defining a portion of an arm hole and below the arm hole being formed with a lateral extension having diverging arms extending from its upper end at the margin of the arm hole, said extension being adapted to be folded longitudinally along a line between the arms, and said arms being secured to each other along their inner side edges to form a gusset having side leaves formed by the folded 16. In a garment having a body and sleeves, a front section for the body defining an arm hole and having a side edge adapted to be sewed to a side edge of a back section below the arm hole, the said front section having arms diverging from each other at the lower edge of the arm hole and below thev arm hole having a portion adapted to be folded along a line between attached ends of the arms and form a gusset having side leaves when inner side edges of the arms are sewed together, said gusset being adapted to have upper portions of its leaves formed by the arms sewed along their outer side edges at margins of a slit formed longitudinally in a sleeve and the lower portion of one leaf being adapted to be sewed to the side edge of the back section and mount the gusset within the garment between front' and rear sections thereof.

17. A body-forming section for a garment having a body and sleeves, said section havingits upper portion cut to define an arm-hole, and arms extending upwardly in diverging relation to each other from the lower edge of the armhole and when secured, together along their inner side edges adapted to form a gusset.

18. The method of constructing a garment including the provision of body and sleeve elements cutting a. forked arm-hole insert, stitching furcations of the insert together to form a permanent bend in the insert and normally hold the insert folded, and stitching the sleeve and body elements of the garment and simultaneously stitchingmarginal edges of the insert in the arm-hole portions of the sleeve and body elements.

19. The method of constructing a garment-including the provision of body and sleeve elements, cutting a substantially Y-shaped arm-hole insert. stitching inner side edges of arms of the insert and normally maintain the insert folded together to form a permanent bend in the insert, and stitching the insert in the arm-hole position between the sleeve and body elements simultaneously with the stitching of the said elements together. 

